Date of publication 15/04/2018
They seem to have accepted it. Marrakchis, as the inhabitants of this city are known, know that almost wherever they go, they will cross paths with visitors from all over the world in search of the city’s Moorish allure. Last year, in fact, they broke every record: two and a half million tourists, more than double the local population, were drawn to the great capital of southern Morocco. The liveliest and most Berber of the Imperial Cities. And also, the most irresistibly authentic.
Still, there is another, more nuanced way to experience the city. It begins by letting yourself be immersed in the local spirit, starting with a balance between European comforts and Moroccan pleasures in places such as Iberostar Waves Club Palmeraie Marrakech, a peaceful oasis set in the palm grove. Here, traditional Moroccan dishes are served in its restaurants, and relaxation is distilled into a single concept: Spa Sensations.
After these indulgent moments, the city reveals itself through a different lens, with experiences that reward those who know how to appreciate them. Morocco, it’s worth remembering, is far more than Marrakech. To the north, on the Mediterranean coast, Iberostar Waves Saïdia is one of the country’s top family hotels: a striking beachfront property on Saïdia Beach, along Morocco’s Golden Coast, with direct sea access, beautiful pools, and an all-inclusive concept that makes it one of the country’s most highly rated resorts. On the Atlantic coast, Iberostar Waves Founty Beach in Agadir is another beachfront hotel with a pool that appeals to families seeking sun, sand, and an easygoing stay in Morocco.
The classics, seen anew
Her Majesty, the SQUARE
That is how everyone refers to it, simply, though in French: la place. Jemaa el-Fna, the vast square at the entrance to the souks, beats like a lively heart. True, it is the worst possible place if you are trying to pass as a local, but coming to Marrakech and not spending at least an afternoon here means you have missed something essential. Every night, it becomes a gathering place for locals.
In the morning, it is quieter, filled with stalls where you can have freshly squeezed orange juice for just a few dirhams. As the day unfolds, henna artists appear, ready to decorate your hands before you have even said yes, followed by snake charmers coaxing cobras to sway to the sound of their flutes. But it is at sunset that this theatrical stage truly comes alive, crowded with tourists, yes, but even more with Marrakchis who gather night after night to watch the show: grandparents with their grandchildren, couples walking arm in arm, sometimes even hand in hand; groups of friends, some with headscarves, others in miniskirts and makeup.
Clusters of mostly men, doubled over with laughter, gather around storytellers who perform like medieval jesters, spinning hilarious tales. Nearby, you will find everything from boxers and acrobats to fortune tellers, tooth pullers, and sword swallowers. Everywhere, the sharp rhythms of Gnawa musicians fill the air, and they will not miss the chance to ask for a coin if they see you reaching for your camera. Keep some change handy and be ready to tip; they are working, after all.
Through the haze of smoke on the other side of the square are the food stalls. As if they could read your mind, waiters will speak to you in your native language before you even say a word, often adding a joke about politics or sports. For those who find it all a bit overwhelming, the cafés with terraces overlooking the square offer a calmer perspective. Classics like Argana, Glacier, or Café de France are perfect for watching the sunset. To see the square with almost no tourists, though, you will need to stay late.
The Koutoubia, a guiding landmark
The slender minaret of this Almohad mosque, twin to Seville’s Giralda, rises above the otherwise low skyline of the city. Like all mosques in Morocco except the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, its interior is closed to non-Muslims. This has nothing to do with religious extremism. The rule dates back to General Lyautey, head of the French Protectorate, who, embarrassed by soldiers walking over prayer rugs with their boots, prohibited non-Muslims from entering places of worship.
Take note: if you are invited into someone’s home, make a gesture of removing your shoes at the entrance. Out of courtesy, they may tell you it is not necessary, but it is best to insist.
Learning to say “no” in the souks
Packed with small shops and shoppers, the souks can feel intimidating. You will almost certainly get lost once you leave the main streets, but only by doing so will you discover their true neighborhood life. The deeper you go, the better.
As you wander through their alleys, you will come across workshops of potters, weavers, jewelers, and perfumers; the small square of Rahba Kedima, with Atlas kilims hanging from balconies and fortune tellers offering their services; herbal shops with remedies for everything, spice vendors, and the constant rhythm of metalworkers, carpenters, and blacksmiths, until you reach the dye pits where wool is colored and leather is tanned.
While it is best not to attempt entering mosques, it is worth seeking out the Ben Youssef Madrasa in the old city, the grand Quranic school that once housed nearly a thousand students, as well as the Bahia Palace and the ruins of El Badi, where storks circle overhead near the Saadian Tombs. It is said that this walled royal cemetery was rediscovered by the French while mapping the medina from above, as if such a labyrinth could ever truly be mapped.
What may be harder to escape is the persistence of the vendors. A smile, a tentative bonjour, and you may find yourself trying on slippers you do not even like, unless you have learned to say no. They are sharp and know that visitors often hesitate, and they make the most of it.
Rule number one before filling your suitcase with half the souk: get a sense of prices and avoid buying on your first day. It will show, and you will pay for it. Then ask yourself, “Would I buy this at a market back home?” If the answer is yes, decide how much you are willing to pay, but never name the price first, and let the bargaining begin. Be patient and, above all, keep a neutral expression. If they sense your interest, that item will suddenly become the most expensive in the shop, so it helps to ask casually about other things first, without ever criticizing the goods or losing your sense of humor. The friendlier the exchange, the more enjoyable it becomes.
Ignore the theatrics. If a vendor acts offended by your final offer, remember that Marrakech is, in many ways, a stage. If you walk away without reaching an agreement, they may send someone after you. If they do not, you may have pushed too hard. Nothing here is given away for free anymore.
Among the stylish crowd
Without leaving the Medina
There may be fewer beards and lumberjack shirts, but a certain hip, contemporary vibe has also made its way into the labyrinth. Of course, there are plenty of travelers, but you will also find expatriates and stylish locals from Casablanca or Marrakech itself at spots like Café Arabe, where sunsets from its oasis-like rooftop are unforgettable, or at the tea room of the strikingly original boutique and art gallery Riad Yima, especially inviting in winter when the fireplace is lit. Others gather over the fusion cuisine at NOMAD or, if budget is no concern, at the refined restaurant Dar Moha, led by one of Marrakech’s most renowned chefs.
At Kosybar, in the former Jewish quarter or mellah, the crowd leans more international, with visitors enjoying late-afternoon drinks while local young people drift in, often looking to meet someone new. More discreet is the beautiful black-and-white photography collection at Maison de la Photographie, or the literary cafés, concerts, and exhibitions hosted at Dar Cherifa, a 16th-century riad where you can even enjoy brunch in a courtyard that feels like a contemporary take on One Thousand and One Nights.
Guéliz and Hivernage
In these neighborhoods developed during the French period, blending in with locals becomes easier if you leave the floral shirts and selfie sticks behind. Here, you will find not only global luxury brands but also designer caftans by Fadila El Gadi, distinctive handbags from Lalla, decorative furniture by Yayah, and, just steps from Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic Majorelle blue retreat, the collections of Moroccan designers at the concept store 33 Rue Majorelle.
Hidden corners abound, such as the pastry shop Le Petit Fours, where locals stop by after visiting the Carré Eden shopping center in search of the city’s best sweets. There is also the Amal Women Training Centre, where you can learn how to prepare traditional Moroccan bread or a classic couscous alongside women receiving culinary training.
The area is also home to some of Marrakech’s more spirited nightlife institutions, such as Le Comptoir and Theatro. Pacha, inevitably, sits a bit farther out, on the way to Bô Zin, where the local jet set gathers under the palm trees to dance to DJ sets while others opt for a more relaxed evening over dim sum. And if, after a late night, you need to recharge, all-inclusive hotels in Marrakech, like Iberostar Waves Club Palmeraie offer the perfect antidote: a pool, a sun lounger, and Moroccan cuisine, all without lifting a finger, just a short distance from the city’s nightlife.
Off the beaten path
A picnic with the Marrakchis
As in Italy, Moroccans rarely skip their evening stroll. But when the heat sets in and staying indoors becomes unbearable, locals head straight to neighborhood parks, the landscaped edges of the city walls, or any avenue with greenery. Settling down for dinner in the open air, they unpack salads, pastillas, and fruit from their containers, sometimes even bringing a small stove to prepare mint tea or warm up a tangia or tagine.
There is no better way to see that Marrakchis, especially those not connected to tourism, are remarkably warm and sociable. With just a little French, you may find yourself clapping along with a family who might even have a relative working abroad. With the snowcapped peaks of the Atlas Mountains as a backdrop, the Menara Gardens, once a retreat for sultans and their entourages, are ideal for a picnic among locals. On the way, the 320-acre olive groves of Ghabat Echabab, near Bab Jdid, offer another inviting setting.
For those looking to extend their journey beyond the Red City, Morocco offers exceptional alternatives. In Agadir, Iberostar Waves Founty Beach is an ideal beachfront hotel for families seeking Atlantic sun and sand without compromise: an all-inclusive property with a pool and direct beach access, among the most complete seaside hotels in the country. For those drawn to the Mediterranean, Iberostar Waves Saïdia in Saïdia stands out as one of the best hotels in Morocco, a five-star beachfront resort with an all-inclusive offering that makes it a destination in its own right.
Where locals shop
For everyday needs, many turn to familiar options like Carrefour or supermarkets such as Marjane, even though it no longer sells alcohol after reportedly being acquired by a Saudi group, despite Morocco producing excellent wines. For a more local feel, there are the stalls of Souk Azli. However, if you want to shop without encountering many tourists, head to Avenue Dakhla in the more distant modern district of Ahbass Massira, where Marrakchis themselves go shopping, especially since prices in the medina have risen sharply with the influx of visitors.
ELENA DEL AMO
Images: Cordon Press and D.R.
HAZLO REALIDADFive Reasons to Golf on a Greg Norman-designed Course
Greg Norman has set the bar high for quality golf experiences. As one of…
Yucca and chicken tamales recipe
Fresh vegetable and seitan spring rolls with Nuoc Cham sauce
Welcome to Inspiration Guide
Hello! We want to welcome you to Inspiration Guide, a website that wants to…
Star Camp: have fun exploring
<strong>Activities for children and teenagers</strong>
The unstoppable wave of change
